Stone Town STREET FOOD + Street MAGIC Binge!


last time I took you on a whirlwind tour
of stone town in an episode dedicated to the late great Anthony Bourdain. I
feasted high above stone town’s meandering alleys and dined in some
notable restaurants. today it’s all about street-level cooking – plastic stools,
humble one-woman shows, breakfast with locals, cold fruity drinks, and of course
fantastic local street food. buckle up because it’s happy times ahead for my first stop I duck out of a short
summer rain into an unnamed locale tucked behind the main market for
breakfast. I pick out an assortment of mysterious deep fried items from a glass
display case and have it all served on top of a thin omelet.
accompanied by some Indian influences such as chai or chapatis, if greasy fare
such as bacon eggs and hash browns is how you start your morning then you will
find yourself quite comfortable at this establishment. plus a little mayo and
chutney mix helps it all go down a tad easier. skipping the mandazi it’s just
too oily to start the morning with though there’s some fried fish and fried
calamari offers. I just had awesome breakfast for two people 4,200 shillings if a mashup of deep-fried food in the
morning is a harsh way for you to start the day, then there’s always Lukmaan’s. Lukmaan is damn popular and more importantly
it’s authentic Tanzanian food and friendly to your wallet. if you look past
the throngs of tourists and the fanny packs seated throughout the restaurant,
you’ll see that it’s equally enjoyed by locals and rightfully. so I got a vegetable
coconut curry, milk chai, various chapatis a little less oily than the local
place and of course their famous baobab tree in the background that thing is huge. and it shades the entire restaurant yeah that’s a good breakfast, everything
here 500 shillings, this place you know some people may say it’s touristy, but for the quality and price, it’s the best value I’ve been craving this. mmm with breakfast in my back pocket and the
rain subsiding it’s time to deal with the stifling heat of the day. stone town
is hot. ridiculously hot. icky like Southeast Asia hot. so hot that as you
can see my phone’s camera often has heat stroke. on really bad days, it even whines like this. (buzzing sound) still not convinced it’s hot? well here’s my fair
skinned self upon arrival in stone town Here I am three weeks later night and
day darker dark. enough for immigration to have a second glance at my passport
and this is all after the continuous liberal application of sunscreen. and for
those of you who don’t know, I’m also known in some circles as the sunscreen
guy. because of the heat one does not go on a food rampage during the day. you
spend your days by the water, appetite free while continually seeking solace in
the form of cold refreshments. fortunately you have many options to start you could drink a freshly cut
coconut outside the darajani market for only 1000 shillings it’s not diluted not watered down it’s
got a strong coconut flavor. I’m just, I’m just worn out from the heat.
I’m pretty beat I’m pretty happy sitting here in the shade. once you’re done
drinking, don’t throw away the coconut. give it back to the man. He’ll carve it
complete with a coconut shell spoon for digging out the delicious coconut meat.
I drank a lot of coconuts. so many in fact that on my last day I went back and
gave the fine purveyor of these delicious coconuts a magic show in
gratitude. want something cold and non-alcoholic? this French speaking fellow tells me he knows where the best sugarcane juice in stone town. (French) I apologize if I’ve translated anything
wrong as well as for my bad French. after all, I’ve been learning mostly Swahili.
after a somewhat unavoidable visit to his friend’s spice stand, I get to the
secret jusice shock and yes it’s ice-cold and fantastic for those of you who make
it here, it’s located right in the dala dala bus area. if I knew about this place
earlier I would have skipped a lot of Stoney Tangiwizis. best place in town
apparently is right beside the dala dala stop. one place right here. Mon ami (friend) says this is “le favorite” you see the colors you know it’s fresh,
stone town has an abundance of fruit and what better way to quench your thirst
then with a tropical mix. the safest bet is once again Lukmaan. they use bottled
water in their smoothies and iice and for that you’ll have to pay a premium.
around five thousand shillings a glass if you’ve been in Africa as long as I have
then you can head down the street and chance it at a local unnamed eatery. this
one woman shop is where you can find ugali served which is a Tanzanian
cornmeal staple but I’m scorching and only here for her juice today, where I’m
able to fill a bottle for only three thousand shillings. and yes that large
somewhat dirty looking, refrigerated jug is where my juice comes from. there
we go one cold one and a half liter bottle of
mango papaya passion fruit. with the evening finally returning a
beautiful sunset, the calm Indian Ocean, and returning
appetite greet me. these are the things that make everything right. my first stop
is ma shaa allah cafe located right beside Lukmaan and a worthy neighbor. don’t be
fooled by the cafeteria style lunches – there’s fine dining to be had in the
evening come here for the Indian food stay for the African influences.
everything is done right the tandoori is bright red and cooked to perfection. the
vegetables still crispy and bright, the rice fluffy and not oily I got extra today I got a lot of flights ahead of me a whole day’s worth of flights, connections, layovers, so I asked for extra, and… as airport food is so expensive. next up
I wander outside to tourist part of stone town to where a number of street
vendors draw my curiosity. it is here that I find plenty of barbecue meat
stalls and most interestingly the urojo soup or Zanzibar Mix. so we got this
mixed soup going on. “moja” (one) got some mixed soup going on. all
these great ingredients. as the name implies the soup is a tangy mash-up with
heavy Indian influences. we start with a curry based soup, often creamy and you
may encounter any of these ingredients: chickpeas, bhajias, cubes of mangos, eggs, and potatoes. it’s topped off with fresh vegetables, crunchy cassava shavings,
lemon juice, and spoonfuls of tangy chutney with extra squeeze bottles on
the side should you require more hits Zanzibar mix is simple in appearance but
complex in flavor which is to say a delicious mashup. mystery sauce.
so okay one is let’s try this one first. that’s like spicy Apple let me try
number two sour apple. good street food, crunchy, sour, sweet, and yeah it’s got a mix of textures and flavors.
so it’s good Street food and it’s 2,000 shillings. hot food and hot weather – not a
great mix and yet I keep going for it. as the night descends, the street vendors
begin opening shop and illuminating the streets with their lights. the grilled
meat is what you would expect but burgers? mango chutney fries? I’ve
resisted these guys for weeks simply on principle of it being burgers and fries
but I finally give in after seeing that only locals eat here and it’s good. now
if only they served beer as you can see this place, it’s the only
popular with locals if you’re here longer and you’re out of late-night food
options, then yeah for sure this is the best value in town. one more tip bring
your own napkins because they don’t provide anything. my hands are really greasy right now. As for the famed forodhani market it is by all accounts quite tame during the day
but explodes at night. it’s worth visiting simply for the food variety. the
BBQ looks appealing but I’ve been advised by my hosts to avoid it if I
don’t like having diarrhea, so I decide to give the crepes a try as they appear
unique to the market. cheese, butter, vegetables, an egg. trying it now it’s awesome definitely get the spicy one and I don’t like
that soft cheese so get it with the regular mozzarella. great great pizza. tonight’s
combo at the night market is going to be the market pizza, tangawizi drink, and card tricks. satisfied I conclude my foray into stone town’s
gastronomy on a high note with a small magic show for the locals that grows
into a much larger one by the finale hi my name is Jesse I’m on a
quest to face all my fears master as many skills as possible and using them to connect the world




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